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The World of Cilantro

How can anyone dislike the sweet pleasure of the unique and refreshing flavor of cilantro? If I had to guess, I’d say no, but it has been said the world is divided into two groups: those who loathe this herb and those who love it. Personally, I fall into the latter category and l go even further: it is the sexiest of the herb garden. Its pleasing fragrance the delicate greens impart, is almost like a breath of fresh air.

If you’ve tasted Roast Duck stir-fried With Snow Peas, a popular Chinese dish or dunked your tortilla chips into a Chunky Salsa or a Guacamole Dip in your favorite Mexican restaurant, then you’ve probably experienced the intense, exotic flavor of cilantro (we call it coriander).

Cilantro has always had a notorious reputation because of its “offensive” odor. After all, its name is derived from the Greek word “koris” which translates to bedbug, hence suggesting an unpleasant smell. Only recently has cilantro gained some well-deserved popularity. I bet this is due to the mounting interest in Chinese, Caribbean, and Latin American cuisines. We don’t seem to use this wondrous herb in France, except in Vietnamese restaurants, and Thai, I suppose.

A major misconception is that coriander leaves can be substituted for the seeds. The latter appear in the plant’s mature stages of growth. Don’t make this mistake. They are very different in character and will drastically alter the flavor of the food you prepare. The seeds are usually used to flavor gin, the pale green liqueur called Chartreuse; they are also very popular in pickling spice, breads, cookies and cakes, and naturally, in curries.

This herb has one of the oldest of histories, dating back to 5000 B.C. It is mentioned in Sanskrit records and found on Egyptian papyri. Originally from the Mediterranean and further east, cilantro made its way to the Americas in the 16th century via Spanish explorers who introduced it to the natives of Mexico. Since that time, Mexicans successfully incorporated it into their cuisine and with it, delighted taste buds everywhere. In China, information about yuen sai, as it is known, appeared around 200 B.C. when it was eaten as a vegetable, believed to have calming properties. It was also used medicinally, as an antidote for stomach upset and to treat ptomaine poisoning.

And for added lore, Chinese legend has it that the leaves bestow immortality placed in New Years’ bath water. So now you know what to do next New Year’s Eve!