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A Champagne Diary

e Champagne is the product and La Champagne is the region, just so you know. There are just 34,000 hectares to the East of Paris, of which 31,000 are planted, and these provide the entire world, a yearly average of 280 million bottles with an absolute maximum of 310 million. The vineyards of Champagne are divided between 310 villages or crus. The terroir (I’m not talking about terroirists here!) of these crus change dramatically and those with the most suitable soils, aspects of the sun, inclinations and good climate will produce the better grapes. Vines are planted on south-facing limestone or chalk slopes. The deeper, more fertile soil is used for farming and raising cattle. Ownership of the land is just one aspect of a most elaborate system that includes how the grapes are grown and the wine made, all of which is controlled by the most rigorous and strictly enforced rules and laws designed to ensure quality over quantity. The regulatory body known as the CIVC (Comité Interprofressionel du Vin de Champagne) is based in the lovely town of Eperney, the capital of La Champagne. The town’s centre, La Place de la Republique lies at the start of the wonderfully named Avenue de Champagne which the old Churchill called the finest address in the world (I bet he knew a thing or two about this tipple and downed his fair share!) Anyone planning a trip to France should include a couple of days motoring through the region (a couple of hours from Paris) as many of the Champagne houses are open to visitors. You can also purchase ex-cellar at better prices and stock up for the festive season (and piss off Bill O’Reilly in the process, he hates all things French!)

As you know we are a finicky people and we like to categorise our favourite drink.

Champagne is divided into four major categories of dominant impression on the senses:

Body: Champagne with body are sensual, powerful, structured and intense, with wood, spicy and red fruits overtone. They provide an excellent match for foie gras (although I’m adverse to its preparation, much prefer a simple paté) Parma ham, volailles (light poultry) and light stews.

Spirit: Champagne with spirit are vivacious, light and delicate with grassy and citrussy (if such a word existed!) aromas. They have a special affinity with fish and shellfish and excel with sorbets and ice-creams.

Heart: Champagnes with heart are generous, heart-warming and smooth, offering aromas of brioche, cinnamon and honey. They are a ferfect accompaniment to lamb, gratins, warm desserts and red fruits.

Soul: Champagne with soul are mature, complex and rich with hints of rare and subtle spices. Among these wines are Special Cuvées and cherished vintage Champagnes. They are so exceptional that they deserve to be savoured by themselves.

As for most of us, Champagne is such a great celebratory drink! It bubbles up your nose and makes you giggly. Champagne is for when you are depressed or feeling decadent, ecstatic, optimistic, or fatalistic, or celebrating a business deal, a joyous occasion, or simply another day of life.