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	<title>PolitiCook &#187; Garden Problem Solving 101</title>
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	<description>Food for the Progressive Soul</description>
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		<title>Bean Bed Update&#8230;</title>
		<link>http://politicook.net/2008/07/17/bean-bed-update/</link>
		<comments>http://politicook.net/2008/07/17/bean-bed-update/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Jul 2008 22:26:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Kate Petersen</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Farming & Homesteading]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Garden Problem Solving 101]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Urban Gardening]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://politicook.net/2008/07/17/bean-bed-update/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Crossposted from Monkeyfister&#8217;s place with his permission so biscuit can see it &#8211; Kate
All is good in the Bean Bed. As you can see, I&#8217;ve got all the twine trellises tied up (32 of them), and the Pole Beans are having a great time growing up them. All I need to do now, is keep [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>Crossposted from <a href="http://monkeyfister.blogspot.com">Monkeyfister&#8217;s place</a> with his permission so biscuit can see it &#8211; Kate</em></p>
<p>All is good in the Bean Bed. As you can see, I&#8217;ve got all the twine trellises tied up (32 of them), and the Pole Beans are having a great time growing up them. All I need to do now, is keep them on their own strings, while the lines tighten up.</p>
<p>The Bush Beans are growing fine. We see the First Planting is up and running, while the Second Planting is popping up well. I plugged in some more seeds where I didn&#8217;t see germination. Now, it is time to sow Planting 3. I should be getting Beans from Planting #1 in about two weeks, and from the Pole Beans in about 3 weeks. I am still harvesting Bush Beans from the Tomatoes/Peppers bed, and just as they are done, these will be coming in.</p>
<p><img src="http://bp3.blogger.com/_7-ywsAgfzig/SH-QcM3KsMI/AAAAAAAABLA/A3vO6Ev2he8/s400/PICT0004.JPG" /></p>
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		<title>Garden Problem Solving 101&#8211; Blossom End Rot</title>
		<link>http://politicook.net/2008/06/30/garden-problem-solving-101-blossom-end-rot/</link>
		<comments>http://politicook.net/2008/06/30/garden-problem-solving-101-blossom-end-rot/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Jul 2008 03:33:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Monkeyfister</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Garden Problem Solving 101]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Urban Gardening]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[From time to time, under the &#8220;Garden Problem Solving 101&#8243; moniker, I&#8217;m going to try and provide some advice and fixes for common garden problems for you. Stuff that I have encountered and battled with, and other problems that I might be currently experiencing and want to help you avoid.
Have you ever had a Squash, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>From time to time, under the &#8220;Garden Problem Solving 101&#8243; moniker, I&#8217;m going to try and provide some advice and fixes for common garden problems for you. Stuff that I have encountered and battled with, and other problems that I might be currently experiencing and want to help you avoid.</p>
<p>Have you ever had a Squash, Pepper or Tomato plant growing and blossoming  wonderfully, setting lots of fruits, and suddenly one day, discover the blossom ends of the fruit starting to go black and rot?</p>
<p>Problem is <strong>BLOSSOM END ROT!</strong> Pretty aptly named, eh?</p>
<p>It seems terrible to look at&#8211; worse yet when it strikes your beautiful Tomatoes! OH NOES!!!</p>
<p>But, fear not, this is an easy problem to fix, and the fix is cheap, as well.<span id="more-960"></span></p>
<p>Blossom End Rot is caused by a lack of Calcium in the soil.</p>
<p>Tomatoes and Cucurbits are <strong>heavy</strong> Calcium feeders, and need it in abundance. So, be sure to ALWAYS recycle those eggshells into the garden soil. Ohhh, but that is not enough, and not the quick-fix that we need, now is it?</p>
<p>No. It&#8217;s not&#8230; C&#8217;mon Monkeyfister&#8211; get on with it!</p>
<p>OK. Here ya go:</p>
<p>Your plants are screaming for two things&#8211; Bonemeal and a product by Espoma, called PLANT-TONE &#8212; available anywhere&#8211; I go to Lowes or the local Ag Co-Op. Put one cup of each around the &#8220;dripline&#8221; (under the branches of the plant) of each plant, gently work into the soil, and water in thoroughly. Then water a bit every day. Lime is also a good thing to work into the soil. But don&#8217;t over-do it, just a little dusting to the soil, as it can over-adjust the soil pH. Liming is best done <strong>before</strong> planting, and ALWAYS use a soil pH tester. I bought a great electonic one from Lowes for cheap. Using these inexpensive products, you&#8217;ll see improvement in 7-10 days.</p>
<p><a href="http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/3000/3117.html" title="via Ohio State university Ag Extension">via Ohio State University Ag Extension </a></p>
<blockquote><p><em> Maintain the soil pH around 6.5. Liming will supply calcium and will increase the ratio of calcium ions to other competitive ions in the soil.</em></p>
<p><em># <strong>Use</strong> <strong>nitrate nitrogen</strong> as the fertilizer nitrogen source. Ammoniacal nitrogen may increase blossom-end rot as excess ammonium ions reduce calcium uptake. Avoid over-fertilization as side dressings during early fruiting, especially with ammoniacal forms of nitrogen.</em></p>
<p><em># Avoid drought stress and wide fluctuations in soil moisture by using mulches and/or irrigation. Plants generally need about one inch of moisture per week from rain or irrigation for proper growth and development.</em></p>
<p><em># Foliar applications of calcium, which are often advocated, are of little value because of poor absorption and movement to fruit where it is needed.<br />
</em></p></blockquote>
<p>So don&#8217;t spray that shit on your plants&#8211; put it in the ground, and water it in!</p>
<p>I hope this helps you!</p>
<p>And seek your local Ag Extension online&#8211; they are a fantastic resource.</p>
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